We set off from the West Coast today, saying goodbye to the beaches of Margaret River. A drive through Gum Plantations, rolling hills and a long descent down from the tablelands had us crossing vast open plains of farmland and state forests. Our first stop, on this crossing of the Red Centre was Wave Rock.

Famous for its granite formation, it would serve as a starting point for the Holland Track as we make our way toward Kalgoorlie. On our arrival however, we found out that our concerns that had grown with the increased evidence of rain were well founded and the Holland Track was closed due to the recent rains. We would therefore spend another day here, planning how to go about or drive forward and east. It proved to be quite a fruitful day however, as I climbed up on top of Hyden Rock, got to experience the vast and beautiful vistas it afforded me. I then followed a small path along the rock toward its namesake, Wave Rock. It is truly awe inspiring when that close to the formation, as it towers above you, curved at its upper lip. Truly an experience that will live with me, only made better when photographing the rock later again that night.

We departed from Wave rock the following morning, making our way toward Kalgoorlie and then onto Menzies. I got my first taste of Dirt Road in WA, as we travelled along the Hyden-Norseman Road before turning off to visit a small dried-up lakebed, covered in a layer of salt. I sent up the drone and was amazed at just how expansive the area was as all around you could see lake beds and dried up tributaries. Before too long after this we made it to Kalgoorlie, it was here that we needed to collect a few supplies before pushing on, I picked up a new UHF radio and we set off toward Menzies.

A quick overnight stop later and it was today that we’d be hitting the famous Great Central Road. A highway of dirt that cuts across the center of Western Australia to the border with the Northern Territory. The morning started off great before a flat tyre 60 kilometers down the road threw quite the spanner in the works. After an hour of changing the tyre over, it was clear that it was going to be a long day. Leonora was the stop of choice and more so necessity as a replacement tire was desperately needed, especially given how notorious the Great Central Road was on then. A visit to the local mechanic and one hours labour later and it was back on the road. Travelling well into the late afternoon and early evening, camp was set up off the main road and behind some trees so as to shelter from any trucks using the road at night.

Starting off the next day was destined for a slow start as issues with brakes caused a long delay. However, we ended up departing around 10:30AM. The road steadily grew rougher as Warburton drew closer, before suddenly turning to bitumen about thirty clicks out of the community. Filling up at $3.40 a litre was definitely an experience, but it was a needed one and once done, we headed off. The destination for that evening was Warakurna, however the weather looked quite foreboding, with rain clouds forming up in the distance. Before too long it was drizzling down slowly, before growing to a steady shower. Pulling into Warakurna at around 5:30PM local time, camp was quickly set up and we hunkered down for the evening.

The next day we would be making our way toward the Sandy Blight Track. After a short 70 kilometre stretch of the Great Central Road, we reached the turn off and made our way along the path. It was rough and only seemed to be getting rougher, with the car dancing and shaking down the path violently, corrugations bouncing the Ute into a frenzy. This then made way for an undulating cacophony of twisting creek beds and sand dune rises. It was very very slow going, averaging at around 20-25 Km/h. Camp would be made again along the side of the track hidden away from view of passersby. A fire lit, dinner cooking and it was time to settle in for the evening.

This day started out as any other on the tracks of Central Australia. The camp was packed up and we made our way back onto the road, pushing again through some of the toughest roads and corrugations we’d encountered. A mix of small dunes and spinifex flats held our attention for most of the day before the land broke out into, at first quite small, but eventually towering red quartzite behemoths. The beginnings of what would be the MacDonnell Ranges came into view. It was at this stage that we pulled onto the Garry Junction Road. With our destination of Glenn Helen set, we pushed on, until we reached Mount Liebig. A small indigenous community about 270km west of Alice Springs.

We’d blown the campers two right side Shock Absorbers on the road. With the driving ground to a halt, the damage was assessed, and it was found that both were beyond repair and the spring wedged between the chassis and body. Close to 2 hours of work later and the shocks were out, and the spring reseated, the limp toward a new destination in Alice Springs was underway. 270 kilometres of what felt like the roughest roads, at 20-30 kilometres an hour. The thing about corrugated roads, is that when you’re driving at normal speeds, the car seems to glide almost, over the top of the small bumps. However, at the slow speeds we would be doing, we would feel every one of them, shaking the car to what felt like it’s doom. It was going to be a long night. Camp was made just after midnight, and still there was another 200 kilometres to go, but as always, we had dinner, went to sleep and awoke with a new burning optimism for the day, and it was surely answered in kind.

Two Shock Absorbers, completely blown apart from their mounts.

After the long night of driving the previous day, we set off again at around 7:00AM. And to our relief, we were on bitumen and off the dreaded dirt tracks. The drive into Alice was not particularly eventful, which after the week it had been, was sorely welcomed. Pulling in just after 12:00PM that afternoon we set up and had the new shocks set for a Monday morning repair at Outback Campers in Alice Springs.

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Across the Red Centre ( 2022 Trip - Part 2)